Lagavulin Distillery, Islay: Deep, Smoky and Storied

Lagavulin Distillery, Islay: Deep, Smoky and Storied

Open to visitors — this distillery has a visitor centre and/or tours (some by appointment; book ahead — see the box below).

Lagavulin at a glance

RegionIslay (Kildalton coast)
Founded1816
OwnerDiageo
Visitor centreYes — over the bay from Dunyvaig Castle
ToursTours & tastings — pre-booking essential
OpeningYear-round, seasonal hours — check the website
Websitemalts.com

Overview

Lagavulin — from the Gaelic Lag a’ Mhuilinn, “the hollow by the mill” — is the middle distillery of the Kildalton three, set on a beautiful curved bay beside the ruin of Dunyvaig Castle. Its 16-year-old is one of the most admired single malts in the world: rich, deep and enormously smoky, with a sweet sherried heart underneath the peat. If Ardbeg is peat at its fiercest, Lagavulin is peat at its most rounded and complete.

The history

There was illicit distilling in this sheltered bay long before the law arrived — reputedly a cluster of ten small stills. The legal distillery was founded in 1816 by John Johnston, and after a tangled early history of neighbouring operations merging, it came under the ownership of Sir Peter Mackie, the formidable figure behind the White Horse blend, for which Lagavulin was the key malt. Lagavulin has been a cornerstone of blends and, latterly, a star single malt ever since; it is today one of the jewels of Diageo’s “Classic Malts”.

The water & the land

Lagavulin’s water comes from the Solan Lochs (Lochan Sholum) up in the hills about 200 metres above the distillery, running down as a peaty burn — the distillery holds exclusive rights to it. That peaty water, and floor-malted peated barley, are the source of the whisky’s huge smoky depth.

The distillery’s founders included Johnstons and a partner named Campbell Brooks — a surname, not an estate link. But the bay itself is soaked in clan history: it stands right below Dunyvaig Castle (Dun Naomhaig), the naval fortress of Clan Donald and the Lords of the Isles, from which they controlled the western seaways. Islay passed to the Campbells after the MacDonald forfeiture, and it was on the Campbell estate that the legal distilleries grew up.

Visiting

Lagavulin has a visitor centre and runs tours and tastings, for which pre-booking is essential — it is one of the most popular distillery visits on the island. It opens year-round with seasonal hours; check the website and book ahead. The walk out to the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle on the bay is well worth adding to a visit.

Nearby & more whisky

Sources